Day 11

This day was utter hell. Not only the worst day on the tour, but the single worst day of cycling I’ve ever experienced. Like so many bad days, it started out with an inaccurate weather report.

I remember the weather report very well because there was a good chance we were going to get rained on. Most of the day was a 10% to 20% chance, but for an hour in the early afternoon, the chance jumped to 40%. They said to expect accumulation of 0.04″. We set out with that in mind, wearing rain coats, and when we got rained on early in the morning, even rain pants. The rain was cool and the air was cool, but not unpleasant, especially if you’re working up a sweat. We had a hard day ahead of us and expected to reach a 7900 foot peak.

Some of us had trouble in the mud generated by the morning rain. Bikes became unrideable. It was unpleasant, but we worked it out and got through. When we reached the apex of our climb, we saw storm clouds ahead, and were pretty sure we’d get wet again. With that in mind, Greg M. and Chris, the two most at risk in the mud, rode ahead in an attempt to outrun the storm.

The rain came. Big, fat drops. It picked up the pace and drove harder. If it behaved the the morning storm, this would be no big deal. It would soon back off and turn to light rain once again. But it was not at all like that storm. This one began pelting us, and the rain began to sting, and that’s when we realized it was actually hail.

The video below tells most of the tail of what happened next, but not all of it. Natural rain is notoriously hard to catch on camera. The storm was driving and relentless, but you don’t really see it, even though it kept pelting us every minute of this ride. Another thing is the temperature. It dropped from ~78 degrees to ~34 degrees in less than an hour. We were freezing. But because of the very heavy rain, we were reluctant to stop to put on extra clothes for fear of soaking through the new layers before we could put them to use. We were looking for shelter, but as you can see in the video, all we have is sage brush as far as the eye can see. Not even a tree to huddle under. We knew where we were, but not the details. Sure, we were on the right road, but how long until we see a farm house? How long until we see a car? We were at very real risk of hypothermia, and when we did finally find shelter, we were shaking uncontrollably as we tried to put on more clothing.

The weather eventually got better, but there were still many miles to go. It was an 80 mile day, the longest of the tour so far, and that’s fully loaded with gear and a 7900″ hill in the middle. But we were all strong, we were going to make it. Except in all the haste, confusion, and pain of the storm, we forget to eat. And we bonked.

For those of you who don’t know what bonking is, it’s basically running out of gas. You put out energy to ride hard, but don’t take enough in, and your body starts to rebel. The last 7-10 miles were flat, and many paved, and despite that, I could barely make it. When I showed up to the cabin, I was beaten down. Greg M. and I were sharing a room, and he suggested a hot shower. When I got it, the water immediately started to cool. The water heater was tapping out, too.

The video I’m going to link to, the same one from another post, is not actually the worst. There’s one more where the ice gets thicker. I’ll try to post that one later. For now, I’m tired. But I’ll ride tomorrow. Not giving up.

Biking in the 3rd circle of Hail

Day 10

This was a fun day for a bunch of reasons. To start with, it was all pavement, so we got done fast. Nice change of pace. Then we got to camp. First time camping with the whole crew (we’ve mostly been staying in cabins and motels). And then there was the ghost town at Bannack State Park where we were pitching our tents. The town was the first capital of the Montana territory, and people flocked their for the most Western ghost town of reasons… Gold! I really wish Laury were here. She would have loved it. But I am bringer her back a very small surprise. Don’t tell her 😉

Interview with Chris this morning. Really nice guy and arguably the best on a bike of the four of us.
The ghost town. As you can see, some buildings were maintained pretty well and some were not, but they let you go into almost any of them. In some cases, I wondered how much liability insurance they were carrying, because there was a good chance they were going to need to use it.
Schoolhouse in ghost town. Apparently, if you were a teacher in the 19th century in the Montana Territory, you were not allowed to get married. Or “keep company with men.” Or leave town without an escort. Basically, I don’t recommend becoming a teacher in 19th century Montana.

I feel bad that I didn’t get any pictures of the tents or other camping activity. Maybe next time.

Day 9

What a day of riding! Like many of our days, we got to go up a hill, then we got to go down a hill. I highly recommend you set up your rides this way, because it’s hella fun letting gravity do its thing after you’ve spent all day working hard. Especially if you’re dropping into the beautiful Wise River Valley on a road just steep enough to be fast, and just slow enough so you can look around and enjoy.

As we moved on from lunch, you can see that Montana is transforming from a largely wooded state, to one made of grasses and sagebrush. As we look back, you can see the stand of trees where we saw our first black bear, a youth who quickly scrambled away as soon as he saw us. We weren’t able to get our cameras out in time to take a picture, and we sure weren’t going to hang around to wait for the mama.
Dean enjoys a great downhill stretch. Note the beautiful Montana sky that “big” does not adequately describe.
I’m quite sad that my upload speed is so slow right now. I would have loved to send this to you at the highest quality. This was the descent into Wise Valley. Pure reward at the end of nice, hard ride.
We don’t make the signs, we just take the juvenile pictures next to them. BTW, “Divide” is a local community and the Big Hole River is part of the same river system as the Wise River. No word yet on why they’re named that way.
I found this .22 LR shell in the parking lot at a car wash. Guns of all types are positively everywhere out here. I solemnly swear this is true, today I walked into a gas station and saw fresh fruit, hard liquor, pistols, AR-15s and shotguns, car batteries, and an assortment of hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.). This store was about the same size as the 7-11 back home.

Day 8

Day 8 was an easy day on paper, but after Day 7’s excitement, the short, uneventful ride felt plenty tough and we were quite tired at the end. We ended the day in Butte, which was mined extensively for copper over the last decade and left an ecological disaster in it’s wake. And that’s kind of a metaphor for the small city. It’s a mix of super interesting history with the terrific Montana people we’ve come to expect in this great state, but also sketchy stuff you’d really rather avoid.

Did I mention we were tired when we came into town? Well, my GPS said we needed to climb to the top of this mountain before we were allowed into Butte. Cuss words may have been spoken. This was one turn by turn we were happen to ignore.
The copper mine seen from a distance. It dominates every overview of the city. Despite the fact that it’s a Superfund site and a massive ecological disaster, it’s obvious the citizens of Butte are quite proud that the copper from this mine quite literally made America what it is today.
The pit from the inside. All that water has the acidity of vinegar in addition to many toxins. They have round the clock sirens and fake explosions in an effort to keep waterfowl from landing here. Large flocks have been known to perish after mistakenly choosing this inviting lake for a respite.
The excellent shop where Greg M. got some work done on his bike. Chris in center looking tough and, wait, who is that in the background? Bill and Giselle! I suspect we’ll see them again.
Told yah. We all had a bite at Mac’s Tavern, and the owner was nice enough to let them bring their bikes inside. And put them on the stage. So, naturally, the whole band needed to get in on the action.

Off the Grid

We’ve been out of cell range for the last few days, so I haven’t been able to update the blog, but a whole lot has happened, so a bunch of posts are coming. To whet your appetite, check out this video. I’ll give a more detailed description in another post, but for now, I’ll just say that if you can’t watch the whole thing, definitely skip to the end to compare/contrast. (There may be a few f-bombs. I think you’ll forgive me as you watch things play out).

Day 7

Oh man, this day’s description is totally no good without pics and video, but it was totally awesome and totally horrible. I would do the horrible again in a heartbeat in order to experience the awesome.

I’ll upload the vids and pics when I can, but in consolation, I’ll do a post on the earworms that have plagued us 🙂

Earworms from the Divide

In no particular order from various riders.

She’s a lady
What’s new pussycat
I got a brand new roller skate
Walk 500 miles.
Everything is gonna be all right – Bob marley
Dread zepplin
Lizzo – water me. Juice.
It’s a small world.
I can’t drive 55
Superfreak

Day 6

Weird mix of cringe and good today

The cringe: It started out cold and rainy. Yep, we were prepared, and yes, it was sorta inevitable, but that doesn’t make it fun. We were all wearing rain gear and warm clothes as we slogged through the mud up the first hill.

But then it got worse. Bike traffic was being diverted from the normal route because of a nearby wildfire. And the authorities suggested alternate route was undecipherable by at least four grown men, including a doctor and a guy who works in transportation for a living. We managed to find a way, and it turned out that it took us to a couple of happy accidents.

Accident number one was that we met up again with the cyclists from DC, Bill and Giselle (sorry if I’m butchering that spelling 🙁 ). We had been leapfrogging around them over the last couple of days, but as we were all scratching our heads about the best route to take, we decided to bike together for a while. They really are great folks, and we all paced together into Helena.

Accident number two is that we ended up on the highway, and we really kind of needed it. We were all kind of beat from a couple of days of hard travel, weather, etc. With the six of us, we were able to keep up a good pace without too much effort, and ended up in Helena with plenty of time for a good meal and some much needed rest.

For some reason, we were pretty excited about our peanut butter and honey wraps.
Giselle and Bill were really good sports.
Whadda ya know, I guess we were, too.
Pretty flowers for Laury. Love ya hon!
Lunch for whoever can figure out where we were supposed to go based on this helpful map. And dinner. And a six pack.

Day 5

Hard day today. Lots of climbing, and I started out already tired from my last few days of solo travel. We did kick major butt, but I think I’m going to pay for it tomorrow. (I’ll add Strava view tomorrow)

One fun thing, we met some other GMDR riders today and had lunch with them. Notice the frame bags? Yep, that’s the DC flag. But it gets batter. Greg M. was talking to them about where they worked, and it turns out one of them works literally across the street from his office. If you have “It’s a small world” stuck in your head for the next hour, you’re welcome 🙂

Day 4

I put on the miles today and linked up with most of the other guys, Greg McFarland, Dean and Chris. My brother, Greg Smith, is still waiting to get clearance from his doctor so he can join us, but he assures me his collarbone is on the mend and he already has a full range of motion.

Today was the least scenic of all the days so far. I was forced to hit the main roads, instead of the beautiful back roads, in an all-out effort to catch up with my comrades. Still, I continue to meet wonderful people and stop at great stores. My lunch was at a gas station with ribs and fresh fruit (the plumbs were excellent). And to think I thought I’d be stuck with jerky and slushies.